Free Easy Crochet Cool Emoji Headrest Cover Pattern

Is your car interior feeling a bit boring during your daily commute?

Give your driver or passenger seat an instant personality boost with this hilarious Cool Emoji Headrest Cover!

Featuring classic cool sunglasses and a smug, confident smirk, this project turns an ordinary car headrest into a fun, eye-catching road companion.

This pattern is worked in standard US Crochet Terms and combines simple double crochet rounds with clever shaping to fit snugly over most standard vehicle headrests. Let us grab a hook and bring this trendy emoji to life!

Materials and Preparation

Materials:

• Yarn (Worsted Weight / Medium #4):
  • Yellow yarn (Main headrest base)
  • Black yarn (Sunglasses)
  • Brown yarn (Smirking mouth)
• Cord / Tie: A long crocheted chain or drawstring to secure the cover at the base of the headrest.

Tools:

• Crochet Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8) or size needed to obtain gauge/desired fabric density.
• Yarn Needle: Tapestry needle for weaving in ends and sewing on the sunglasses and mouth.
• Stitch Markers: Essential for marking increase points on the headrest base and tracking rounds.
• Scissors: Sharp scissors for trimming yarn tails.

Preparation Notes:

• Familiarize yourself with working in oval rounds, basic double crochet increases, and special stitches like treble crochets (tr) and picots used for shaping the sunglasses.
• Leave long yarn tails on the sunglasses and mouth pieces to make sewing them onto the yellow base smooth and secure.

Abbreviations and Notes

Abbreviations:

• ch: Chain
• sc: Single Crochet
• hdc: Half Double Crochet
• dc: Double Crochet
• tr: Treble Crochet (Yarn over twice)
• inc: Increase (2 stitches in the same stitch)
• sl st: Slip Stitch
• MR: Magic Ring
• pico: Picot stitch (ch 3, sl st into the base of the chain/top of the treble stitch)

Pattern Notes:

• The headrest base is worked in joined oval rounds from the top down. Each round begins with a ch 3 (which counts as 1 dc) and joins with a sl st to the top of the initial ch 3.
• The sunglasses consist of two distinct pieces (Right Lens and Left Lens) connected by a crocheted bridge.
• Do not sew the outer tips of the sunglasses completely flat; leaving them slightly unattached allows the fabric to stretch naturally over the headrest without distorting the shape.

Gauge, Approximate Size, and Pattern Notes

Gauge:

Gauge is flexible depending on your car’s headrest dimensions, but aim for a firm, solid double crochet stitch so the interior headrest fabric does not show through.

Finished Size:

• Width: Fits standard car headrests approx. 9–10 inches (23–25 cm) wide.
• Height: Fits standard car headrests approx. 8–9 inches (20–23 cm) tall.

Special Techniques:

• Oval Foundation Expansion: Starting with a central chain and working along both sides of the chain to form a seamless rounded dome.
• Picot Cornering: Used at the outer edge of the sunglasses frame to achieve that iconic sharp, flared sunglasses shape.
• Drawstring Cinch: Threading a slip-stitched cord through the final row of double crochets to cinch the bottom neatly around the headrest posts.

Step-by-Step Pattern

Part 1: Main Headrest Body (Yellow Yarn)

• Foundation: Ch 10.
• R1: Starting in the 4th ch from the hook (the skipped 3 ch counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in each of the next 5 ch. In the last ch, work 6 dc. Working along the underside of the foundation chain, work 1 dc in each of the next 5 ch. Work 4 dc in the remaining space of the starting chain (joining the existing ch 3 and first dc to complete 6 dc on this end). Sl st to top of starting ch 3. (22 dc)
• R2: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same st, 2 dc in next st. 1 dc in next 5 sts. Work 2 dc in each of the next 6 sts around the curved end. 1 dc in next 5 sts. Work 2 dc in each of the remaining 4 sts on the opposite curve. Sl st to top of ch 3. (34 dc)
• R3: Ch 3, 1 dc in same st. Work 2 dc in each of next 3 sts. 1 dc in next 5 sts. Work 2 dc in each of the next 12 sts around the curve. 1 dc in next 5 sts. Work 2 dc in each of the next 8 sts. Sl st to top of ch 3. (58 dc)
• R4–R7: Ch 3, 1 dc in each st around. Sl st to top of ch 3. (58 dc per round)
• R8 (Increase Round): Ch 3, 1 dc in same st. 1 dc in next 21 sts. 2 dc in next st. 1 dc in next 6 sts. 2 dc in next st. 1 dc in next 21 sts. 2 dc in next st. 1 dc in remaining 6 sts. Sl st to top of ch 3. (62 dc)
• R9: Ch 3, 1 dc in each st around. Sl st to top of ch 3. (62 dc)
• R10 (Increase Round): Ch 3, 1 dc in same st. 1 dc in next 23 sts. 2 dc in next st. 1 dc in next 6 sts. 2 dc in next st. 1 dc in next 23 sts. 2 dc in next st. 1 dc in remaining 6 sts. Sl st to top of ch 3. (66 dc)
• R11: Ch 3, 1 dc in each st around. Sl st to top of ch 3. (66 dc)
• R12 (Increase Round): Ch 3, 1 dc in same st. 1 dc in next 25 sts. 2 dc in next st. 1 dc in next 6 sts. 2 dc in next st. 1 dc in next 25 sts. 2 dc in next st. 1 dc in remaining 6 sts. Sl st to top of ch 3. (70 dc)
• R13: Ch 3, 1 dc in each st around. Sl st to top of ch 3. (70 dc)
• R14 (Increase Round): Ch 3, 1 dc in same st. 1 dc in next 27 sts. 2 dc in next st. 1 dc in next 6 sts. 2 dc in next st. 1 dc in next 27 sts. 2 dc in next st. 1 dc in remaining 6 sts. Sl st to top of ch 3. (74 dc)
• R15–R20: Ch 3, 1 dc in each st around. Sl st to top of ch 3. (74 dc per round) Fasten off and weave in ends.

Part 2: Cool Sunglasses (Black Yarn)

Right Lens Base Circle:

• R1: MR, 6 sc into ring. Sl st to first sc, ch 1. (6 sc)
• R2: 2 sc in each st around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1. (12 sc)
• R3: (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st) 6 times. Sl st to first sc, ch 1. (18 sc)
• R4: 1 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st. Repeat (1 sc, 1 sc, 2 sc) around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1. (24 sc)
• R5: 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 3 sts. Repeat (2 sc, 3 sc) around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1. (30 sc)
• R6: (1 sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st) around. Sl st to first sc. (36 sc)

Right Lens Frame Shaping:

• Continuing from R6: Ch 1, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, 1 dc in next 2 sts, 1 tr in next 2 sts.
• Pico: Ch 3, sl st into top of the last tr worked.
• Work 3 dc down the side of the last tr stitch.
• 1 dc in next 2 sts of main circle, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, sl st in next 5 sts.
• 1 hdc in next 2 sts, 1 dc in next 3 sts, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, 1 sc in next st, sl st in remaining 3 sts. Fasten off, leaving a long tail.

Left Lens (Base & Frame Shaping):

• Work R1–R6 same as Right Lens Base Circle. Turn work to operate on the wrong side for proper symmetry.
• Sl st 7 times along edge. 1 sc in next 2 sts, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, 1 dc in next 2 sts, 1 tr in next 2 sts.
• Pico: Ch 3, sl st into top of the last tr worked.
• Work 3 dc down the side of the last tr stitch.
• 1 dc in next 2 sts, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, sl st in next 5 sts, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, 1 dc in next 3 sts, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, 1 sc in next st, sl st in remaining 3 sts.

Connecting Sunglasses Bridge:

• Flip work to right side. Sl st 7 times back up to the top inner corner of the lens.
• Ch 3, reach over to the corresponding inner point of the opposite lens and sc to join.
• Sl st into lens edge to anchor, turn work, and sc 4 times across the ch-3 bridge. Sl st to anchor on opposite side. Fasten off with a long tail for sewing.

Part 3: Smirking Mouth (Brown Yarn)

• Foundation: Ch 23.
• R1: Sl st in 2nd ch from hook. 1 sc in next 2 ch, 1 hdc in next 2 ch, 1 dc in next 4 ch, 1 tr in next 4 ch, 1 dc in next 4 ch, 1 hdc in next 2 ch, 1 sc in next 2 ch, sl st in last ch. Fasten off, leaving a long sewing tail.

Part 4: Drawstring Cord & Assembly

Bottom Drawstring Cord:

• Ch 100.
• Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch back across. Fasten off.

Assembly and Finishing:

1. Position the connected sunglasses on the upper third of the yellow headrest cover. Pin in place.
2. Using the long black yarn tail and a yarn needle, stitch around the outer rims and bridge of the sunglasses, leaving the outermost flared corners slightly loose to accommodate stretching.
3. Position the smirking mouth below the sunglasses, curving it upward on one side to create a cool emoji smirk. Sew securely in place.
4. Weave the drawstring cord in and out every 3 double crochet stitches along the bottom edge (Round 20) of the yellow cover.
5. Slip the cover over your vehicle’s headrest, cinch the drawstring cord to gather the base neatly around the headrest poles, and tie a bow.

Detailed Pattern Breakdown

1. Main Headrest Base (Dome Geometry)

The body is constructed from the top down using an expanding oval technique rather than a standard circular flat top:

• R1–R3 (Top Oval Expansion): Starting with a central foundation chain of 10 stitches, double crochet stitches are worked along both sides of the chain. Multi-stitch increases at each end (6 dc expanding up to 12 and then 16 dc on the curves) transform the chain into a flat, rounded oval dome, reaching 58 total stitches.
• R4–R7 (Straight Wall Depth): Maintaining a constant 58 stitches creates the straight vertical crown of the headrest cover without adding width.
• R8–R14 (Gradual Side Flares): Car headrests naturally widen toward the bottom base. Strategically placing 4 dc increases across alternating rounds (widening from 58 to 62, 66, 70, and finally 74 dc) mirrors the tapered slope of standard automotive seats.
• R15–R20 (Bottom Skirt): A final set of straight 74-stitch rounds extends the cover down to cover the entire headrest height.

2. Cool Sunglasses Frame & Asymmetric Lens Shaping

Achieving the iconic shape of sunglasses requires precise stitch hierarchy to transition from a round lens to a flared, angular frame:

• R1–R6 (Lens Disc): Standard circular single crochet expansion (sc inc patterns) creates two flat circular lenses with 36 stitches each.
• Frame Flaring (hdc rightarrowdc rightarrow tr rightarrow pico): To turn a round disc into modern sunglasses, stitch heights gradually increase along the top edge from sc to hdc, then dc, and finally tr. The peaked outer corner is created using a pico stitch (chain 3, slip stitch back).
• 3 dc Lateral Stepdown: Working 3 dc stitches directly into the side post of the final tr creates a clean 90-degree drop along the outer edge of the sunglasses.
• Left Lens Symmetry: Because crochet stitches lean naturally, the left lens is worked on the wrong side after R6. This ensures both lenses flare outward symmetrically toward the ears when assembled.
• Bridge Cable: A short ch 3 bridge worked across the inner gap is reinforced with a row of sc stitches to lock both lenses together into a rigid frame.

3. Asymmetric Smirking Mouth

The emoji’s confident smirk relies on structural variation across the foundation chain:

• Stitch Gradient: By layering stitch heights across the row (sl st rightarrow sc rightarrow hdc rightarrow dc rightarrow tr rightarrow dc rightarrow hdc rightarrow sc rightarrow sl st), the center section bulges downward while the ends taper sharply, creating a thick, curved smile line that holds its shape when stitched onto the yellow background.

Pattern Question

Question: How can I ensure the sunglasses and mouth stay centered and do not warp when the cover stretches over my car headrest?

Answer: Car headrests stretch the fabric horizontally when installed. To prevent facial features from distorting, slip the unadorned yellow base cover onto your headrest first and mark the center placement for the glasses and mouth with stitch markers or safety pins while the cover is under slight tension.

Remove the cover, pin the sunglasses and mouth in place based on your markers, and sew them down using a flexible whip stitch. Leave the outermost pointy edges of the sunglasses unstitched so they can flex naturally without pulling on the yellow background.